Blondie

(by Aimee Lee Ball)

Author's reading

I was on a business trip to my hometown of Philadelphia. After my meeting at the Four Seasons Hotel in Center City (what Philadelphians call their downtown), I went to the lobby…and walked right past my unrecognizable mother.

What I didn't know was that my mom had started wearing a short blond wig. After two fender-benders that made her realize it was best to turn in her car keys, plus moving to a new neighborhood, it was less convenient to get to her long-established beauty parlor appointment, where her silver hair was lacquered into an iconic French twist that lasted all week.

I had arranged to have a car service bring Mom to join me for dinner after my meeting, so I knew she would be there at the hotel, but it is quite a jarring feeling not to recognize one’s own mother in a public place. All I saw was a blond stranger smiling at me, and then saw her doubled over in laughter when she realized that her new appearance had fooled me.

My mother was first married when she was 21, and widowed when she was 22, with hair that turned gray by the time she was in her mid-20s (you’ll never get me to believe it was the result of anything but grief). She didn’t meet my dad until her late 30s, and was 40 when I was born. I am embarrassed now to remember how I was embarrassed to have a mother who was much older than most of my childhood friends had, despite her abundant youthful energy. And even as the other neighborhood mothers aged, none of them turned gray, while my mother seemed never to have heard of Lady Clairol.

Arthritis had taken a toll on her in recent years, but as we were ushered into the hotel’s dining room, I noticed that there was a new spring to her step. Did blondes really have more fun, as one hair color commercial of the day asserted? (I wouldn’t know.) There was no talk of doctors or medicines that had dominated so many recent conversations. As she perused the menu, she marveled at dishes that sounded unusual and even considered ordering something she’d never tasted, although ultimately settling on one of her favorite foods (and mine too): fresh crab, on this occasion served with linguine. She ate with gusto, and even flirted a bit with the waiter. It was…my old mom, or rather, my young mom.

I did not see any gray hairs on my own head for quite a long time (thank you, Dad’s genes) but I have them now, although you can’t see them. Only my hairdresser knows for sure. I have much paler skin than Mom, whose complexion supported her silver French twist so well, and although I admire women with beautiful heads of gray hair, I've decided to remain brunette.

That dinner with my blonde mother remains a favorite memory, and occasionally I recreate the pasta. It is a completely indulgent dish, as lump crab is currently going for about $80 a pound at my local fishmonger. But if you’re lucky, your mom is worth it. And maybe you are too.

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Aimee Lee Ball is the founder and editor of Eat, Darling, Eat, and a journalist whose work is at www.AimeeLeeBall.com.

Linguine with Crab

8 oz. linguine

2 T. extra virgin olive oil

2 small garlic cloves, minced

1/2 lb. fresh lump crab

juice of 1 lemon

large handful of Italian parsley, chopped

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil and cook linguine al dente.

Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a large frying pan and sauté garlic until lightly golden brown.

Stir in crab, lemon juice, and parsley.

Drain linguine and add to crab mixture, stirring gently to combine.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serves 2 generously.